On Tuesday, November 16th, we headed north from Castro on the bus to Dalcahue. Here the highlight of the day was Keith's beard trim! Costing only $1000 Chilean Pesos ($2.00) Keith had fun chatting up the barber. After Keith tipped him another $500 CP, the barber threw in two free bathroom visits. Each time we have needed to relieve ourselves here in Chile we've given from $150-300. pesos, this is normal for Latin America. At least you usually have a bathroom that is kept clean and toilet paper is provided.
In Dalcahue we visited a wooden church and the artisan handicraft market. We walked on the waterfront by many colorfully painted, handmade wooden boats. We almost hopped on a ferry at the pier but I had the foresight to ask 'where' it was headed. When I didn't understand the response I thought to ask 'when' it was heading back to Dalcahue. Thank heavens I understood that response, manana, tomorrow. We said no thank you and walked on.
We hopped on a second bus which backed onto a ferry and we floated toward the Island of Gamboa where we went to the end of the bus trail, Achoa. The ride was again filled with gorgeous views of the water on both sides of the small island going up and down steep rolling hills. It was interesting to see the mixture of housing options, from very small, run-down and junky shacks topped with metal roofs to very nice, possibly summer homes on manicured lawns surrounded by secure fencing. Side-by-side, few restrictive covenants in place.
After a quick walk around town, and again, cookies for lunch, we got back on the same bus returning to Castro. As we waiting on the bus for the ferry to come back to pick us up we saw the two bike riders we had shared breakfast with weeks ago, way back in Villarrica! This couple, in their late 50s at least, have ridden their bikes up hill and down for at least 500 kilometers. They were riding on this island just to turn around and ride back to see what we had just seen, another wooden church. Maniac bike riders! We tried to tell them to turn around and go back before they headed down the 25 km. path to no place, but they laughed at us and waved goodbye!
Last night we tried to eat Chinese again at a restaurant we've visited a couple of different times, it never opens. So after visiting the book fair and art show, stocking up at the grocery for the bus ride planned for the next day and exchanging our bus tickets to Bariloche, Argentina for two days earlier than planned, we found Chinese wasn't in our future and took our picnic home for dinner. Victor is on to something with sausage, cheese and bread. It's filling, easy and most importantly, available! Luckily while wasting time for the Chinese place to reopen we ducked inside the large wooden cathedral in Castro. We were very pleasantly amazed by the woodwork inside. Keith tried to tug at God's heartstrings, I'm not sure if he was really confusing to clear his conscience or trying to get right with God so that we could be served Chinese!
Today, Wednesday, we took a four hour bus ride to Puerto Montt where we will bus to Bariloche in the morning. It was an uphill trek to our hostel, Casa Perla. We had a nice homemade taco dinner. I found some great locally produced hot sauce which both of us accidently squirted on the table cloth. The spots on my favorite cream-colored jeans will be visible in many pictures from here on out... after all the cookies I've comsumed these britches are the best fitting!
Our last blog from Chile may sound a bit critical, I think we are ready to move on. Puerto Montt is ugly though it's on the side of another mountain ringed lake. Someone is doing sanding on either this house or to the establishment adjacent. Thank goodness for our earplugs because we will be getting up early. We are heading towards total beauty, Bariloche is a world famous skiing resort in winter with many spring/summer outdoor opportunities. We're sure to be high on travelling again tomorrow night!
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